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Lawn Pest Articles
Bluegrass Bill Bug
Chinch Bug
Chinch bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts and they feed on the sap of grass plants. They reside in the thatch area of the turfgrass stand and prefer to feed on the lower leaf sheath and crown area of the plant. The chinch bug
can be a major insect pest on home lawns throughout the country. The adult chinch bugs are about 1/8 to 1/5 inches in length and black with white markings on the wings. The wings rest flat over the back of the insect and there is a black spot between
the wings. Adults may be long-winged or short-winged. There are five nymphal instars of chinch bus ranging in size from 1/32 to 1/5 inches. The first two nymphal instars are red, with a white band across their abdomen, while the third and fourth
instars are orange with wing pads just beginning to appear. The fifth instar is black with wing pads easily visible.
The chinch bug inserts its straw-like mouthparts into the plant tissue and sucks out the plant juices while injecting chemicals into the plant which clog the vascular system. The area around the feeding puncture usually turns yellow. Damaged
areas first appear as small, irregular patches which enlarge as the insects spread. Chinch bugs are most damaging in open, sunny areas.
Chinch bugs spend the winter months as adults in partially protected areas (under shrubs or around foundations of houses). As the weather warms in the spring, adults move into open areas, where females begin laying eggs. 15 to 20 eggs per day
are deposited for two to three weeks. The eggs hatch in one to two weeks, and the nymphs begin to suck the juices from host plants. It takes 30-90 days to reach adulthood. There are two generations per year, with a partial third generation in unusually
warm summers. There is considerable overlap of generations, and all stages can be found during the summer.
You must really examine the grass in the marginal areas of injured patches, not in the clearly dead grass. Spread the grass gently with your fingers and look in the thatch, near the soil surface. Chinch bugs are usually very active in the summer,
so you will be able to see them scurrying around, especially on warm summer days. An alternative method of detecting chinch bugs is to remove both ends of a large tin can, such as a coffee can. Soften the soil a little with water, and insert one end
of the can into the ground at least 2-3 inches deep, leaving at least 4 inches of the can above the ground. Fill the can with water and wait about five minutes. If chinch bugs are present, they will float to the surface of the water, where you can count them.
In many instances, chemical control of chinch bugs is not necessary. Many lawns have natural populations of predators, such as ground beetles or "big-eyed bugs," which can keep chinch bug populations from getting out of hand. Insecticide
applications sometimes have very adverse effects on these predators, causing the chinch bug populations to develop more rapidly in subsequent years. Plant resistance has also been reported for a number of turfgrass species and cultivars.
To avoid this problem in areas with habitual problems, an April to mid May insecticide application will control the overwintering females and subsequent generations during the summer. Reinfestation may occur from adjacent areas, but this process is slow and
may require an additional year or more. This adult treatment must be made before egg laying occurs. As with any pesticide application, be sure to read the label and apply the material at the specified rate. Avoid mowing the area for two or three days afterward.
Contact us to determine if these bugs are causing you a problem, and discuss which insecticides would be most effective for controlling these lawn pests.
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Green Bug
Watch out for greenbugs/aphids.
As adults, greenbugs are aphids that reach 1/16 inch long while nymphs are much smaller. They are soft, pear shaped insects that are light green in color. Greenbugs have piercing-sucking mouths.
Wingless adult female aphids can produce 50 to 100 offspring. A newly born aphid becomes a reproducing adult within about a week and then can produce up to 5 offspring per day for up to 30 days.
The most interesting part about this reproductive cycle is that the females give birth without mating. Wingless Greenbugs migrate to the north with the winds.
Greenbugs damage the turf by sucking the juices out of the grass plant and injecting toxic saliva. Damage usually begins as a burnt orange color around the drip line of trees. The grass plant
eventually dies and turns brown.
An infested area may hold thousands of minute aphids. A hand sweep across green grass next to the damaged turf should reveal some greenbugs on the palm of your hand. Insecticides are effective
but need several repeat applications due to the greenbugs rapid reproductive capability.
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Deer
Protection From Deer
Deer can easily destroy the landscape to your home. Many cultivated plants can be very tempting for the local deer population. Deer eat just about
every kind of plant in a landscape. They eat nuts (such as red and white acorns, beechnuts and hickory nuts), plants, woody plants, mushrooms, and farm crops (clover, alfalfa, corn, winter wheat, oats, soybeans,
peas, sweat potatoes, and apples are a few). In the winter they also graze on bark. A way to prevent the deer from chewing the bark on your trees is to wrap them. Tree wrapping should be done in the fall. Take paper
or plastic and wrap the materials around the trunk, starting at the bottom, and fasten securely below the first set of branches. You can remove the wrapping in the spring, after the first frost.
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Fire Ants
Watch out for fire ants.
You’ll often see their mounds in between the cracks in the sidewalk. Another common problem is fire ants can infesting your lawn. Aside from devastating burning and itching a sting from red ant can inflict upon someone in your family, their mounds
can disrupt the soil. These mounds disrupt the uniformity of your lawn. A single mound may hold as many as 100,000 to 500,000 ants. Red ants prefer to build mounds in sunny sites with clay types of soil.
Contact us if these insects are causing you a problem, and discuss which insecticides would be most effective for controlling these lawn pests.
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Grub Worms
All species of grubworms typically have one generation per year except the black turfgrass Ataenius may have two per year. Most species live through the winter in the thatch or soil as larvae in the third instar grubworm stage.
An exception is the Black Turfgrass Ataenius, which lives through the winter as an adult beetle.
Over-wintering grubworms will move up to feed in the spring and then move down into the soil to pupate. Adult beetles emerge, mate and lay eggs. First instar grubworms hatch and begin feeding before the molting process begins. The seasonal
timing of the complex metamorphosis life cycle varies with each species.
The larvae white grubworm live below the soil surface and feed on the roots of the turfgrass. Turf damage consists of wilted, dying or dead patches of turf. Damage to the turf can also occur from birds, skunks and moles digging for grubworms.
Adult beetles are commonly seen in flight around lights in the evening. Signs of predator damage digging for grubworms is a valid signal of larvae presence. Grubworm damage severs the root structure, allowing one to easily pull up or roll back
dead sod. Doing this often exposes grubworms curled up in a C-position. The various species of grubworms can be identified by the pattern of spines on the raster. Their raster is the underside of the tip of their abdomen, which is at the end of the grubworm.
Generally population levels of 5 to 10 grubs per square foot in poorly irrigated turf or 15 to 20 grubs per square foot in properly irrigated lawns will need control measures to minimize damage. Insecticides are most effective when the larvae have just hatched
and are their first instar. The more mature the grub the more difficult it is to control. It is very important to water the insecticide treatment down into the soil.
Contact us if these bugs are causing you a problem, and discuss which insecticides would be most effective for controlling these lawn pests.
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Moles
It is truly amazing that such a small creature can be the focus of so much interest, anger and even hatred. Part of their mystique is that moles are mysterious rodents that live in the soil and are rarely seen on the surface. While they can certainly cause an
appreciable amount of damage to a lawn, they often take the blame for damage they didn't cause.
Moles are fairly solitary creatures and you will seldom find more than one or two in a yard. Moles are about 6 inches long, grayish-brown in color, tail-less, have an extremely short, pointed snout and paddle-like front feet. There are a lot of misconceptions about what
moles eat. All moles are basically insectivores. They are burrowing around in the soil looking for grubs, wireworms, beetles, ants, insect larvae, earthworms and such. They rarely eat plants, bulbs, roots or other vegetable matter. Moles have an extremely high metabolism
and a voracious appetite that keeps them moving almost constantly in search of food. They are incredible excavators that often tunnel 12 to 15 feet every hour. While digging, they can hear and smell their food. Moles have a few deep tunnels that lead to a burrow, but those
aren't the tunnels that bother gardeners. It is their shallower, foraging tunnels that cause problems.
The tunnels they make when looking for food are within a few inches of the surface of the soil and cause raised ridges on the lawn. If the tunnel isn't too close to the surface, you may not see the ridges but you will find the soft runs when you walk across the lawn.
Most of this activity takes place in open grassy areas where the moles don't have to work around tree roots, but they will wander into a garden or flower bed too. Their only serious impact in the landscape is the unevenness they cause on the surface. They don't actually
harm anything else. And, as much as we don't want to acknowledge it, they help control quite a few harmful insects and help relieve soil compaction.
Other than learning to live with them, there are several ways to deal with moles. Whatever methods you decide to use, keep in mind that moles are most active and closest to the surface in spring and early summer or during wet periods. They also breed in the spring,
so trying to control them early will help limit the future population too.
There are several types of effective traps that have been marketed for years. Because of the nature of the mole, live traps are not very workable. All those that work kill the mole. Traps are available at most hardware stores and directions for setting them should be followed carefully.
Many of the insects that are prime food sources for moles can be minimized by using beneficial microscopic worms that target grubs and many other insect larvae in the soil without harming beneficial soil dwellers such as earthworms. To work, the soil needs to stay moist.
Beneficial nematodes can be purchased at some garden centers early in the growing season or mail ordered. They are living organisms and have to be handled carefully. Once the soil is inoculated, the nematodes can reproduce quickly, controlling soil larvae all season long. They should be reapplied yearly.
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Sod Webworms
All species of sod webworms spin threads of silk as they move, webbing leaves and soil particles together, and often form horizontal silk tubes in the thatch.
The adults are buff-colored moths which are 1/2 to 3/4 inch long. They sometimes have a small, dark line on the top of each wing cover. Two small fingerlike projections are visible at the front of the head and look like a snout. When the moth is at rest,
the wings wrap around the body, giving it a tubular shape. Adults fly out of the grass when they are disturbed by movement, and will move a short distance before darting back into the grass.
The caterpillar stage is when they really start to damage your lawn. They reach up to 1 inch in length when fully grown, but are only 1/8 inch long at the beginning of their development. The color pattern varies with the species and plant source, but most
webworms are greenish, graying or brownish, and usually have dark spots scattered along the body. In most species, the head capsule of the larger stages of caterpillars will be relatively light brown with some dark markings.
Some webworms complete one generation per year and some of which complete two generations per year. Most species spend the winter as large caterpillars a few inches below the surface of the lawn. When the caterpillars become active again in the spring,
they feed for a short period before pupating and emerging as moths. Female moths flit around just above the surface, popping out individual eggs as they fly. The eggs which land in turf hatch about a week later into small caterpillars. These begin feeding
almost immediately, on the leaf tissue above the thatch. Caterpillars go through six to ten molts as they feed and grow. Because there are several webworm species present and because weather conditions vary from one year to another, there appears to be
considerable variation in development of webworms. Eggs, small caterpillars, large caterpillars, pupae and adults can be found at any given time in turf in July and August.
Sod webworms feed on a variety of grasses. Damage appears as yellow or brown patches of closely cut turf. Damage is often mistaken for diseases. While they often thrive on lush, healthy grass, this is also the kind of grass which is most able to withstand
insect stress. Webworms commonly attack Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fine fescue and bentgrass maintained at a variety of mowing heights.
Webworm damage starts as small yellow or brown patches in the leaf blades in lawn areas. As the caterpillars feed and grow, the patches gradually increase in size. Caterpillars are nocturnal, so they will not be noticed on the surface during the day.
However, further examination of the area and brushing of the turf blades will uncover tunnels or burrows in the thatch. Often these burrows will be lined with green, pellet-like matter.
By midsummer, large sections of the lawn may be destroyed by the sod webworm caterpillars, which prefer sunny areas. Webworm damage is particularly severe in droughty conditions, in part because the turf is less able to recover from caterpillar feeding.
Damage is usually most apparent in July and August, when temperatures are highest and cool season grasses are not growing vigorously. Affected areas recover slowly from webworm feeding and often are overrun by weeds.
The easiest way to determine whether sod webworm caterpillars are present in a turf setting is to conduct an irritating drench or soapy flush. This is done by putting one or two tablespoons of lemon-scented dish detergent in one or two gallons of
water and pouring the soapy solution over an area which is about two feet on each side. The caterpillars will be irritated by the solution and will wriggle out of the thatch and up to the surface, where they can be counted. Most caterpillars will respond
to the soapy solution within two to five minutes. This technique is particularly helpful for determining what sizes of caterpillars are present.
The soapy flush and the visual inspection should be conducted on the edges of the affected patches, because this is where the caterpillars will be concentrated. They won’t be located in the dead patches.
Webworms are relatively susceptible to several turf insecticides, as well as some biological control agents. The key to successful control is to apply a control agent when most of the caterpillars are still very small. Because webworms are nocturnal,
traditional insecticide applications should be made as late in the day as possible. This will ensure that the insecticide is as "fresh" as possible when the caterpillars leave their burrows in the evening and begin foraging on the surface.
The material should be watered in lightly, just enough to move the insecticide off the blades and into the upper thatch. If possible, the area should not be mowed for two days after application.
One guideline for timing of application which seems to work pretty well is to make an application two to three weeks after a peak in moth flight activity. This allows time for the moths to lay eggs and for the eggs to hatch into small caterpillars, which are the most vulnerable stage.
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Voles
Prevent Winter Vole Damage
Voles are small, stocky, short-tailed rodents that can cause extensive damage in timber plantings. Vole activity can be detected by looking for a combination of tree damage and above-ground runways. Voles build extensive burrow systems and above-ground
runways between openings to their burrows. The presence of vole runways is a cue to start looking for vole damage. Vole runways are one to two inches wide and may have droppings or plant clippings in the runway. In areas with heavy ground cover, the runways
may look like above-ground tunnels. Plants may be clipped close to the ground in areas around well-traveled runways.
Voles may damage trees above and below the ground. The most obvious damage is to stems of trees where vole tooth marks will be at various angles and may have a whorled or circular appearance. Tooth marks will be about 1/8 inch wide, 3/8 inch long and
1/16 inch or more deep. Rabbits and porcupines leave larger tooth marks and may leave larger chips at the base of the plant. When clipping plants, voles leave a somewhat pointed tip at the end of the stem. Rabbits and porcupines will leave an angular cut.
Vole damage to tree roots may not be detected until the needles start turning brown. In these instances, it may not be possible to determine the cause of damage without pulling up the tree and examining the roots. Voles damage roots by peeling the cambium
off the root and then eating the root. As with clipped stems, voles tend to leave pointed root ends. In contrast, pocket gophers eat the entire root at once and leave angular root ends.
Habitat management is one of the most effective ways to handle vole problems. By limiting vegetation and plant litter, you reduce the amount of available food, increase the risk of predation, and minimize the attractiveness of the site for new immigrants.
If possible, leave time for the population to decline in response to the reduction in vegetation before you plant. Reducing vegetation at the time of planting may leave the voles with little to eat other than your trees.
Plowing or disking is ideal because it destroys vole food, cover and burrows. Vegetation reduction with herbicides, fire or mowing are also effective options. If some vegetation is needed, spot treatments can be used. Spot treatments involve removing vegetation
and plant litter from around the base of the tree. Spot treatments help keep burrowing activity away from your trees because voles are unlikely to dig in areas where they don't find food. Try to keep vegetation and debris at least three feet from the base of the tree.
Cut the remaining vegetation short and remove plant litter to limit food and shelter. If the area between spot treatments contains a high number of voles, competition for food will eventually cause hungry voles to cross the spot treatments.
Toxicants are an alternative if vegetation management fails to reduce damage to tolerable levels. Toxicants may also help quickly reduce vole population on sites where you cannot leave time between vegetation reduction and planting, or where trees are already
established. Remember that voles multiply rapidly in good habitat, so you will have the longest period of population reduction if you combine use of toxicants with vegetation management.
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