Planting and Pruning Articles

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Dividing Hostas
Growing a Vegetable Garden
Planting Annual Flowers
Planting Shrubs for Color
Planting Tomatoes
Pruning Conifer Shrubs
Pruning Deciduous Shrubs
Roses

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Lawn Diseases
Lawn Pests
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Dividing Hostas

It’s a good idea to rejuvenate older hostas in early spring when the shoots are less than 5 inches high. Simply use a spade or smaller shovel to cut through the tough roots of a large hosta. Make sure when shoveling to avoiding the buds. Create sections with six or more buds to produce a moderate-size plant. Smaller hostas can be divided by hand. This allows for proper root growth through the next season.

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Growing a Vegetable Garden

First of all, draw a plan (to a scale) of the ground at your disposal. Make allowances for paths, borders, etc. Next, take inventory of your likes and dislikes in vegetables. Put down on paper every vegetable you wish to grow. Then go back to your plan and mark out a definite space or number of rows for the different vegetables. Select early, midseason and late sorts of these vegetables, which you like best. This will give you a constant supply of them. When garden operations start, be sure to follow your plan. A disregard of your carefully planned program may easily spoil results.

Study the peculiar characteristics of certain vegetables and utilize them to best advantage. Some vegetables thrive even in partially shaded positions, while others require lots of sunshine for best results.

A good portion of vegetables have exceedingly slow growth during the seedling stage of development. Take advantage of this by utilizing space between such rows for quick-growing crops.

A distance of 20 inches between the rows is ample for most vegetables in a carefully managed home garden. Tall peas, tomatoes and corn should be allowed at least 2 to 2-1/2 feet and should be staked for best results. The proper thinning out of all kinds of vegetables is advisable. Do not permit root crops to crowd each other in the row. Thin out radishes, beets, onions, turnips, etc., to stand from about 2 to 4 inches apart in the row, according to variety. Beans will yield more and better pods if plants stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row.

Combine a packet of spinach seed and carrot seed, mixing seeds thoroughly. Make your row uniformly half an inch deep and sow this mixture in the row. Cover, and soon the quick-growing spinach seed will break the crust, making it easier for the weak carrot seedlings to see the light of day. In four weeks, the spinach may be "thinned" to make room for the slowly developing carrots. In six weeks the spinach will be all used up, and the carrots will find room to develop. If an early carrot, such as Early Scarlet Horn, is selected, this will be ready for the table use by July 15th, when the last may be pulled to make room for endive, celery, late cabbage or any other fall crop.

This method may be employed with quite a number of vegetables. Care should be taken in experimenting along these lines, that kinds are combined having seed of about the same coarseness, but possessing different characteristics as to growth. Lettuce and radishes go well together, so do radishes and parsley; the last named being an exceedingly slow grower. The French gardeners plant extra early radishes, midseason lettuce and turnips in the same row, at one operation. This gives about as ideal a succession as can be worked out.

As to the actual location of the different rows and crops, here is a good rule to follow:

If the land runs east and west the taller plantings should be on the north, so that the light will not be shut off from the lower growing vegetables. Corn grows so much taller than anything else cultivated that it should, if possible, be placed in the rear. In front of it, the few hills of early potatoes which it is possible to grow on a city lot may be planted, as they are the least ornamental of vegetables.

Cabbage and cauliflowers grow of corresponding height, and may be planted side by side and given the same treatment. Tomatoes may follow the potatoes, and so on in the order of height until the front of the garden is reached, and such ornamental vegetables as remain may be placed.

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Planting Annual Flowers

Annual flowers can play an important role in a well-designed landscape. Compared to most perennial landscape plants, annuals require higher levels of both maintenance and water, so plant annual beds in easily-accessible areas and near water sources. Concentrate annuals in beds with other annuals or plants with similar water requirements. Planting annuals randomly throughout the landscape not only increases maintenance, but also lessens the plants' aesthetic impact.

Although annual flowers and plants bring a variety of interesting textures and forms to the landscape, they are most notable for the color they provide. Plant simple mixtures of color. Color themes using related colors, such as red, orange and yellow (warm colors) or green, blue and purple (cool colors) work well. Warm-colored flowers bring excitement into the landscape and tend to appear close to the viewer, making the space in which they are planted feel smaller. Cool-colored flowers, however, appear more distant, creating a greater sense of garden space. Cool colors also tend to relax and soothe viewers.

Using shades of one color (including white) is also a popular and attractive theme. Another pleasing effect comes from using complementary colors such as orange and blue, or purple and yellow. These combinations form high color contrasts and create a lot of excitement and interest in the landscape. Always be aware of surrounding or backdrop colors to achieve a coordinated overall design. The best way to set off annual flower colors and textures is to provide a simple backdrop of green vegetation.

Plant height is another important design consideration. Typically, a flower border has the tallest plants in the back, medium height plants in the middle and short plants in the front. An island planting places the tallest plants in the middle of the bed surrounded by plants of decreasing heights.

Before planting, the physical characteristics of the site must be evaluated. Consider the site's soil type, fertility, drainage and its exposure to sun and wind. Compare site characteristics with specific plant requirements. An annual plant adapted to site conditions grows and flowers more vigorously and has fewer pest problems. Some plants intolerant of heat and sun may perform adequately when planted in part shade.

Annual flowers offer flexibility in landscape design. Any planting can be changed each growing season, creating an entirely new design. As a part of their quick change potential, annuals can be used as a temporary solution in a problem site.

Soil Preparation
Prepare an annual bed by digging or rototilling 8 to 12 inches deep. Amend the soil with organic matter, such as well-rotted manure, sphagnum peat moss, compost or leaf mold. Spread 1 or 2 inches of the organic matter over the soil and 1 to 2 pounds of fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, per 100 square feet of bed and incorporate. Do not over-fertilize, which can cause excess foliage growth at the expense of flowers.

Hardy annuals can be direct-seeded in early spring. Do not seed tender annuals until the soil has warmed to 60° F. Once the planting bed has been prepared, make a shallow furrow for planting the seed. Read the seed packet for correct planting depth. Distribute the seed in the furrow and cover very lightly with soil or, if your soil tends to crust over, with a fine layer of vermiculite. Vermiculite will not crust over as soil often does and it allows better seedling establishment. Water the planting site with a fine mist to prevent washing away the seed. Keep the bed moist until the seeds germinate. Newspapers, boards or floating row covers can be placed over the planting site to maintain soil moisture. If using a board, place a brick under each end to keep the wood from resting directly on the ground, and remove it when germination begins. Decrease watering frequency as the seeds begin to germinate. Thin out the seedlings before they become crowded. Excess seedlings can be transplanted to other locations or shared with friends.

Planting Transplants
Although some annual plants tolerate cooler conditions, most should be planted outdoors only after danger of frost is past. Plant during the coolest part of the day, preferably when it is cloudy. Moisten plants before removing them from their containers. If roots are pot-bound, slightly tear the root ball to encourage spreading.

If you are using plantable peat pots, tear them to allow the roots to easily break through the sides. Also, tear off the top rim of the peat pot. This prevents the peat from being exposed to the air where it will act as a wick and draw moisture away from the soil ball, drying out the plant.

Set the plants at the recommended spacing and cover them with soil to the depth of their container. Firm the soil around the roots and water immediately.

Most plants respond well to pinching at planting time. Pinching, or removing the early flowers, allows the plant's energy to be used to establish the plant rather than support flowers. Pinching also induces branching which will, eventually, increase the number of flowering stems. For best results, pinch out the first and second set of leaves.

Maintenance
Annual flowers generally require 1 to 1-1/2 inches of water each week. Be sure the water penetrates to the root zone. Generally, hand watering is not adequate to supply sufficient and uniform amounts of water. Soaker hoses or sprinklers are more satisfactory watering methods. Soaker hoses are the most efficient because there is very little runoff, and evaporation and soil compaction are slight. Avoid overhead watering, particularly in the evening. Foliar diseases can be reduced by watering in early morning, rather than at night.

An annual flower planting may require additional fertilizer during the growing season. If the soil fertility is low, fertilize plants at a rate of 1/2 to 1 pound of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet every 4 to 6 weeks. Sprinkle the fertilizer lightly along the row and scratch it into the soil.

Although most weeds in home plantings can be adequately controlled with a combination of mulching and cultivation, herbicides are available for use in annual flower beds. Before spraying, read the label carefully to determine if the herbicide is safe for use on the plants you are growing.

Pinch off faded blooms at least weekly to stimulate blooming throughout the season. Trailing plants, such as fibrous begonia, petunias, pansies and coleus, can be pruned to keep the plants compact and stimulate additional blooming. Removing faded flowers prevents the plants from forming seed. As a result, they will bloom again in an effort to complete the life cycle.

Annual flowers have relatively few insect and disease problems. However, specific problems will characteristically develop on some plants. Maintaining vigorous growth, spacing plants so they receive good air circulation, planting in a site with good drainage and sun exposure suited to the plant will usually reduce disease problems. Quick identification of the problem and application of the proper insecticide or fungicide will minimize pest damage.

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Planting Shrubs for Color

The goal is to select a variety of plants based on fall and winter texture and color. For beautiful fall red colors, purchase cranberry viburnums, sumac, serviceberries, euonymus, red maples, and sugar maples. Yellow is added by Norway maple, birch, honeylocust, alpine current, and spirea. Purples can be found in grey dogwood, nannyberry, and arrowwood viburnums. For green, evergreens are a great choice. Fruits that adhere into the winter add a touch of color, as well as attracting birds.

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Planting Tomatoes

Choose big tomato plants if you want them to harvest quickly. Tomato plants with extensive root systems develop more fruits. Strip off all the plant’s foliage and side branches, except for the top 6 inches. Lay the plant on its side and dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the soil ball and a shallow trench the length of the stem. Drive a stake into the end of the trench. Gently bend the plants tip upright against the stake and secure it. This will allow the plant to grow and shape without falling over. Fill the hole you dug with soil.

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Pruning Conifer Shrubs

Why Prune
Limit the pruning of most evergreens to the removal of dead, diseased and mechanically injured wood. This helps to maintain of the natural shape of the plants. Formal effects such as clipped hedges, topiary and espaliers require regular attention and special equipment.

When to Prune
Dead, diseased and broken wood can be removed at any time of year. The best time for general pruning is in late winter or early spring, immediately before growth resumes. Narrowleaf evergreens may be pruned a second time in June before the new growth has matured. It may be necessary to give particularly fast-growing plants an additional light pruning or two during the growing season. Good judgment must be exercised when pruning flowering evergreens so as not to drastically reduce the amount of next season's flowering pruning should be done as soon after flowering as possible. Severe pruning can usually be avoided if pruning is done annually.

How to Prune
It is important to have the necessary tools in proper working order for pruning your plants. These tools include a hand pruner, lopping shears, hedge shears and a curved pruning saw. Narrowleaf evergreens are characterized by growth that is either whorled or random (non-whorled). When pruning pines, make cuts just above the needle whorls. Most new lateral growth is stimulated at these points rather than along the stems between the whorls.

In pruning most other needled and broadleaf evergreens, cuts can be made at any point along the branch, but care should be taken not to cut too far back into the older wood, because new growth is not as readily produced from such wood. When selectively pruning, it is a good practice to cut the growth back to a side shoot. Some evergreen species withstand relatively heavy pruning. This is true of such plants as Japanese yew, box and evergreen privet. These plants can be sheared, which involves the uniform removal of new growth to make a plant conform to a prescribed shape. Because shearing encourages the formation of additional lateral growth, a more dense habit of growth is created. The amount and manner of pruning depend to a large extent on the type of plant, its location and the particular tastes of the homeowner.

When to Prune
Prune evergreen shrubs in late March to mid April before new growth begins. Light pruning may also be done in late June or early July.

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Pruning Deciduous Shrubs

Deciduous shrubs are woody plants that drop their leaves in autumn. Examples of deciduous shrubs are lilac, forsythia, snowball viburnum and cranberry cotoneaster. Deciduous shrubs are valued in the landscape for their foliage, branching characteristics, fall leaf color, flowers or colored twigs in winter. Some shrubs have colorful fruit that attracts birds. Selection of deciduous shrubs should be based on their function in the landscape. Shrubs have different habits of growth, fast, medium or slow, with upright, wide-spreading, arching or horizontal branching. The proper selection of the right plant for height and spread at maturity can reduce the need for pruning.

Why Prune
Before you start to prune, know what you wish to accomplish. Pruning is one of the essential but least understood of the garden maintenance practices. Good pruning is the selective removal of branches without changing the plant's natural appearance or habit of growth. Shrubs trimmed to an artificial size or shape require more pruning than shrubs pruned to keep their natural shape. Prune to improve the health of the shrub by cutting out dead, diseased, broken and overgrown branches that interfere with new growth. Prune to control the shrub's size, shape, flower, fruit and colored twig effect.

How to Prune
Three methods used to prune a shrub for a specific purpose are thinning-out, renewal or rejuvenation, and heading back or shearing. By thinning out, a branch or twig is cut off at its point of origin from the parent stem, to a lateral side branch, to a "Y" of a branch junction or at the ground level. This method of pruning results in a more open plant and does not stimulate excessive new growth. Considerable growth can be cut off without changing the plant's natural appearance or habit of growth. Plants can be maintained at a given height and spread for years by thinning out. This method of pruning is best done with hand pruning shears, not hedge shears. Thinning allows room for growth of side branches. Thin out the oldest and tallest stems first.

By renewal pruning, the oldest branches are gradually removed from an overgrown shrub at the ground level. It is best to do this over a three-year or longer period, leaving the younger more vigorous branches. New shoots that develop can be cut back to various lengths by the thinning method to develop into strong branches.

Heading back or shearing refers to cutting back a branch anywhere along the length of a stem. The cut may be above a bud, below a bud, or it may even leave a stub. The effect of heading back or shearing is to concentrate vigorous upright new growth below the cut. This method of pruning is frequently done with hedge shears without regard for the natural form or branching of the plants. If every branch or twig is headed back, more growth develops than was removed by the pruning. The natural form of the plant is altered by the extra growth. Hedges are pruned to a definite size or shape with hedge shears.

Avoid leaving stubs when pruning even a small shoot or twig. Short stubs will not heal over properly and will eventually provide a source of entry for insects and diseases. Cuts too far above a bud may destroy the bud by decay or die-back. Cuts too close to the bud may dry out the bud, especially in winter. The proper pruning cut should be 1/8 to 3/8 of an inch above the bud, slightly slanted away from the bud.

Pruning Tools
Pruning shears are recommended for branches 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter. Twisting shears to cut larger branches will strain and weaken them. The anvil-type of pruning shears is satisfactory for general pruning. However, the scissors or draw-cut type hand shear is preferred for close-cut precision pruning. Lopping Shears -- have long handles and are designed to cut larger branches 3/4 to 2 inches in diameter. Pruning Saws -- have narrow blades, coarse teeth and are designed to cut on the pull stroke. Small curved pruning saws are useful to prune larger shrubs. Hedge Shears -- are used for shearing hedges or formal-shaped plants. Avoid using hedge shears for other pruning purposes.

Time to Prune
The proper time to prune spring-flowering shrubs is largely determined by their condition and the amount of pruning required.

Old, neglected spring-flowering shrubs often require extensive pruning to rejuvenate or renew the plants. The best time to rejuvenate large, overgrown shrubs is late winter or early spring (mid-February to early April) before the plants begin to leaf out. While heavy pruning in late winter or early spring will reduce or eliminate the flower display for a few years, the restoration of a healthy, vigorous shrub is more important.

If spring-flowering shrubs need only light pruning, prune them immediately after blooming. Pruning immediately after bloom allows the gardener to enjoy the spring flower display and gives the shrubs adequate time to initiate new flower buds for next season.

Summer-flowering shrubs, such as potentilla and Japanese spirea, bloom in summer on the current year's growth. Prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring. Summer-flowering shrubs pruned from mid February to early April will still bloom in summer.

Many deciduous shrubs don't produce attractive flowers. These shrubs may possess attractive bark, fruit or fall leaf color. Prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring.

Don't prune deciduous shrubs in late summer. Pruning shrubs in August or early September may encourage a late flush of growth. This new growth may not harden sufficiently before the arrival of cold weather and be susceptible to winter injury.

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Roses

Spacing
Rule of thumb suggests you should plant your roses about 24 inches apart. Of course, this varies depending on the rose you are planting. Check with your local florist for exact specifications. Old garden roses will need wider spacing, while miniature roses can be planted closer. The benefit of planting plants farther apart is good air circulation, which is an excellent step in preventing disease.

Planting Packaged Roses
Packaged roses are considered bare rooted and should be purchased as close to planting time as possible. Roses generally can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. If you have to store your plant for any amount of time before planting, make sure the packing materials are moist and kept in a dark, cool place. Before planting, soak the roses in a bucket of water for 8-12 hours to help dehydrate the roots. If the top is dehydrated, then you may immerse the whole plant in water.

After soaking, trim off any damaged or diseased roots. While trimming, try to maintain 3 to 5 stalks per plant. Each stalk should be pruned back to 3 to 5 buds each. Buds are easy to spot as raised oval areas on the cane. Any cane thinner than a pencil should be removed. Roots may need additional pruning to remove damaged portions.

The hole that you dig should adequately fit the entire root of the plant. Fill the hole 2/3 full of soil and add water, making sure the water gets between the roots. After the water has drained thoroughly, add more soil and repeat the watering process. Since the soil is loose, the plant will sink a little after planting, the bud union will end up 1-2 inches below soil level. Since the packaged rose is dormant, you will need to offer a protective soil mound of about 8-10 inches. This “sweating” process is done to keep the plant moist to encourage maximum bud break. The soil should be left in place for about 2-3 weeks or until new growth starts. When growth does start, gently wash away the soil with a hose so as not to disturb the new growth. Other methods that works well are to wrap the stalks in burlap, or brown paper grocery bags. Place the bag upside down over the plant. Cut two slits in the top and anchor the bottom with soil. After growth starts, the bag can be removed slowly, first by increasing the size of the slits and then taking the bag off all together. Sweating is only done with newly planted roses, not each season.

Potted Roses
Potted roses are easy to plant because they are already growing. Simply tip the pot on its side and tap the root ball out. If the root ball doesn’t come out easily, use a pair of tin snips, shears, or knife to cut the container off. Set the root ball into the prepared hole so the bud union as at the recommended depth. Refill the holes with soil and water as with bare-root roses. With potted roses, you don’t need to apply the sweating process.

Winter Protection for Roses
When selecting roses, always select cultivars that are able to tolerate the coldest temperatures in your area based on USDA hardiness zone maps. One of the ways to protect roses for the winter is to be sure they go completely dormant. To accomplish this, stop fertilizing early enough so growth slows down. No fertilizer should be applied after August 15.

There are many methods to provide winter protection for roses. The whole idea of winter protection is to keep the plant uniformly cold and frozen all winter and prevent the damaging effects of alternate freezing and thawing. Whatever method is chosen, don't begin covering plants too early. Wait until a hard killing frost has caused most of the leaves to fall. You may also want to wait until the temperature has dropped into the teens for several nights. Prior to covering, remove any foliage or other debris that might harbor disease for the next season.

Before covering, some tall roses may need minor pruning to reduce their height, and tying of the canes together to prevent wind whipping. Pruning, however, at this point should be kept to a minimum. The majority of the pruning will be done in the spring to remove dead and diseased canes.

The most common way to provide winter protection is to pile or "hill-up" a loose, well-drained soil/compost mix around and over the plant to a depth of about 10-12 inches. A variety of hilling materials can be used, but the key is to be sure that the material is well drained. Wet and cold is far more damaging than dry and cold. Also, the decisions that are made when preparing the site for roses really governs what kind of success you will have in winter survival. A rose that is planted in poorly drained soil will suffer and often not survive the winter when that same rose, planted in a well-drained site, will flourish. Soil that is used to "hill-up" plants should be brought in from outside the rose garden. Scraping up soil from around the plant can cause root injury and lessen the plant's chance for survival.

After the soil mound has frozen, the mound can be covered with evergreen boughs, hardwood leaves or straw to help insulate and keep the soil frozen.

A variation of the "hilling" method that may offer a bit more protection is one utilizing collars. An 18-inch-high circle of hardware cloth or chicken wire is placed around the plant. The collar is filled with soil, allowed to freeze and then mulched with straw. The benefit of the collar is that it holds the soil in place all winter and prevents it from being washed or eroded away. Over the winter, this erosion can reduce the mound to a very ineffective level, exposing roses to possible winter damage.

Another popular method of winter protection for roses is the use of styrofoam rose cones. If these are used, they need to be used properly. First, don't cover the plants too early. Follow the timing guidelines as for other methods of covering roses. Second, cones need to be well ventilated to prevent heat build-up on the inside during sunny winter days. Cut four to five 1-inch holes around the top and bottom of the cone. These holes will aid in ventilation and keep the air inside the cone from heating up, causing the rose to break dormancy. It is also advisable to mound soil around the crown of the plant before putting the cone in place. For extremely tender varieties, some rose growers cut the top off the cone and stuff it full of straw for added protection. It is also a good idea to weight the cone down with a brick or stone to keep it from blowing away.

Climbing and rambler roses offer challenges with regard to winter protection. In very cold climates and for marginal varieties, climbers may need to be removed from their supports and bent to the ground, then covered with six inches of soil and mulch.

When laying climbers on the ground for covering, one needs to be very careful not to injure or crack the stems. As the weather gets colder their long stems are not as pliable, and they are easily cracked resulting in the loss of that cane.

Another method that can be used is to physically pack straw around the canes while they are still attached to the trellis or support. The straw is held in place with twine to keep it in place over the winter.

Finally, always remember that healthy roses are much more likely to make it through severe winters than are roses weakened by disease, drought, insects or nutrient deficiencies.

Pruning Roses
Dead-heading is the removal of faded flowers before they can develop seed. Dead-heading is a form of summer or day-to-day pruning. The standard recommendation is to cut the flower stem back to an outward-facing bud above a five-leaflet or seven-leaflet leaf.

This "rule" applies best to plants that are vigorous. If the plant is weak or small, you may not want to cut off as much material. Each time you remove this much wood you are removing a lot of the food-making ability of the plant. This method works well for most recurrent-blooming types of roses. With rugosa and other shrub roses where hips are a part of the display, you may not want to prune off the old flowers. In this case, simply clean the spent blooms away with your hand, leaving the hips. Flowers should not be cut after October 1 to allow the plant to begin hardening off for the winter. Dead-heading is also a good way to lessen the likelihood of diseases such a botrytis from becoming a problem.

The pruning of rose bushes can be confusing, especially when you start talking about hybrid teas, old garden roses, shrub roses, once-blooming roses, and English roses. This confusion leads to doubt and improper pruning or no pruning.

The class of rose and the time of year it blooms influence the type and amount of pruning. General pruning principles apply to all roses, but there are differences between classes. The closer one gets to species roses the less severe the pruning. Hybrid teas have the distinction of requiring the most severe pruning for optimum bloom and plant health.

Because of the variety of rose types available, one may need to have an understanding of how the rose flowers. Pruning should also be looked at as applying a few common sense principles to accomplish several tasks. These tasks are to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood; increase air circulation; keep the shrub from becoming a tangled mess; shape the plant; and encourage the growth of flowering wood.

The majority of pruning is done in the spring. Many rose growers suggest waiting until the forsythias start to bloom as a good signal for the pruning season to begin.

Always make sure to use clean, sharp equipment. Cut at a 45-degree angle about 1/4 inch above outward-facing bud. The cut should slant away from the bud. This ensures proper growth. Entirely remove all dead or dying canes. These can be identified as canes that are shriveled, dark brown or black. After making cuts, it is suggested to seal the ends of the cuts to prevent the entry of cane borers. White glue works well. Remove all thin, weak canes that are smaller than a pencil in diameter. If roses are grafted and there is sucker growth, remove it. The best way is to dig down to the root where the sucker is originating and tear it off where it emerges. Cutting suckers off only encourages regrowth of several suckers where there once was one.

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